Day 56 – Clarksburg, WV to Oakland, MD

Miles today – 68

Total miles – 3292

Today’s ride is a strong contender for the toughest day I’ve spent on a bike.  I left Clarksburg at 8:00 am in a steady rain.  Returning to Route 50 east, I went down a steep hill into Bridgeport and began a series of fairly challenging up hills and down hills.  The rain picked up and I was soaked within the first half hour of the ride.  The sky was solid gray and it looked like it would rain all day (again).

I reached the largest city, Grafton, that I would see all day and decided not to stop.  Outside of Grafton I started to climb a very steep mountain.  I saw a sign indicating that I would be enjoying a winding road with switchbacks for the next three miles. 

Just when I thought he rain couldn’t get any worse, it did.  People in cars were pulling off the road because they couldn’t see.  I’m climbing a steep hill with no shoulder in the deluge with my little LED light flashing to let people know I was on the road…yeah, I felt safe.  Here's a look over my shoulder of the climb in the rain.

The descent was scary too…wet brakes on a road with tight switchbacks with a fully loaded bike.  White knuckles on the way down for sure.  The road flattened a bit and I had a very scenic ride along the Cheat River.  I had done whitewater rafting on the Cheat so my mind went to my river rat days when I used to take groups on trips down the Youghiogheny River.

My fond memories came to an abrupt end as I started to climb another “hill”.  This one was worse than the previous one.  It was four miles long at a 9% grade!  After being beaten up by yesterday’s ride, I wasn’t feeling too prepared for this climb but I put my head down and pedaled.  At some points on the climb I was only going 3.5 mph which is a normal human walking speed.  I realized that it would take me a full hour to climb this hill at that speed so I tried to pick up the pace.  Finally at the top, I expected another scary descent but it never materialized.  Instead, I enjoyed a gradual descent down into Aurora.  I stopped for lunch at a little dinner and felt sorry for the clean up crew because I was drenched when I went in and I left a puddle in the booth and on the floor.  When I left the restaurant, it was still overcast but it had stopped raining.  I rode down the hill and stopped at a small gas station to get some water.  There I met Tim who was a fly fishing guide in the area.  We talked for 20 minutes about biking and the outdoor paradise that exists in this part of the country.  He reminded me that doing the hills in the rain is probably preferable to doing them in oppressive heat. I told him that thought had occurred to me as I was looking for a positive spin while I was climbing.

Weirdly enough, I crossed into Maryland and tomorrow I will ride out of Maryland and back into West Virginia.  Look at a map and you we see why. There are no motels in this area of Route 50 so I turned north and seven miles out of my way to Oakland, MD where there are several small motels.

Tomorrow I will ride over to Romney, WV and meet one of my neighbors, John Chaney, at the end of the day.  John is riding over to meet me and will ride with me back to Winchester on Sunday.  I look forward to having company again…and somebody to share the hills with.  I can’t believe that I will be home in 9 days.

David

July 31, 2009

Day 55 – Parkersburg, WV to Clarksburg, WV

Miles today – 87

Total miles – 3224

We found out today that the hotel we stayed in last night is, in fact, haunted.  We stayed in the William Chancellor suite…come to find out that Wm Chancellor was the builder of the hotel and he haunts it.  Donna thought she heard somebody knocking on out door...it was room service with our breakfast. 

While cruising around on the internet for a map of my intended travel route, I found a bike trail that starts in Parkersburg and ends in Salem, WV.  Salem is close to Clarksburg so I thought using this trail would be ideal rather than spending the day on Route 50 which is a four lane, 65 mph highway.  I printed out directions to the trail head which was about 6 miles from our hotel.  I found it without getting lost and began heading east on the trail.  About 300 yards into the trip I hit a very muddy construction area that crossed the trail.  There was no way around so I picked up my bike a walked through the muddy and lose stone…mistake.  The weight of the bike caused me to sink in the mud.  I spent 15 minutes digging mud from the bottom of my riding shoes with a trig so I could clamp into my pedals.

The trail is called the North Bend Rail Trail and extends for 70 miles.  I’ll call it the trail that could be a trail.  If West Virginia would put some money into resurfacing the trail, it would be one of the nicest long trails in the country.  Alas, most of the trail is two tire lanes through the grass.  Wash out repairs were done with ballast stone so big that it would be a challenge even for a big tired mountain bike.  Why would anybody repair a bike trail with stone that a bike can’t ride on?  The State has put a lot of money into the trail infrastructure.  There are numerous bridges made necessary by meandering creeks that border most of the trail.  It’s mostly flat because it was a rail track in its previous life…flat is good when you’re in WV (as I would find out later).

The most interesting feature of the trail is its 26 bridges and 10 tunnels. The most stupid thing I did today was forget my headlamp.  I hit the first tunnel at mile 13.  I decided that walking through would be safe so I entered the mouth of the tunnel and quickly realized that it curved slightly so, I the middle I would not be able to see “the proverbial light at the end of the tunnel”.  I couldn’t see my hand in front of my face but I had no choice…I walked on pushing my bike in front of me so it would encounter any obstructions before I did.  By the way, this is the moment that I realized I had forgotten my lamp.  Eventually, I saw a fuzzy light and I aimed toward it and walked safely out the other side.  The next tunnel one mile later was 1,840 feet long so I had to repeat the same process again. 

Early in the day I was thinking that I had only seen small animals like squirrels, ground hogs and rabbits.  I thought I'd see some larger animals like deer.  Well, I didn't expect what I was about to see on the trail...a herd of cows.  They stood across the trail and stared at me so I stopped and stared right back...stalemate.  So, I began pedalling toward them and they all turned and began to trot away from me down the trail in the same direction I was headed...far about a mile!  Finally they found a place to turn off the trail and got out of my way.

For the first 25 miles, I didn’t see one other person on the trail.  I arrived in Cairo where the North Bend Trail headquarters is located in an old bank building.  It was closed.

I walked up to the local general store that also rented bikes and met one of the least friendly shopkeepers I’ve ever met.  You would think this guy would be a bit more appreciative that most of his business comes from trail users but his store was the only game in town, forcing people to put up with his attitude.  I pedaled on. 

I called Donna who would be driving from Parkersburg to Clarksburg on Route 50 which parallels most of the trail I was on.  It turn out that we would both hit Ellenboro about the same time, 12:15, so we could have lunch together and I could get my headlamp from the stuff I had packed in the car.  At 1:00 pm I jumped back on the trail with over 40 miles to go.  The trail surface didn’t get any better and I was getting pretty beat up bouncing along on the rocky surface.  It had rained last night so there were places where standing water was a problem.  I had finally had enough when my tires started to sink in to soggy ground slowing my progress to about 7 mph.  At this speed and under these conditions, I wasn’t going to make Clarksburg before dark.  In Greenwood I saw a connecter road to Route 50 and took it.  This is when I learned that the trail is flat and Route 50 isn’t.  I climbed and descended hill after hill.  Five miles out of Clarksburg, it began to pour.  The hotel is actually on the east side of Clarksburg so I climbed a final hill and hung a right on a busy road with no shoulder at 5:00 pm, just in time for rush hour.  I took a scary ride for about two miles, dodging cars and puddles until I arrived at the Hilton Garden Inn.  I was glad to be done with the day. 

The North Bend Rail Trail is a diamond in the rough with the potential to be one of the nicest in the country with a little more effort and probably a lot more money. It seems a shame to have spent the money to build the trail only to have its use be limited by the lack of proper surface materials.

David

July 30, 2009

Days 53 and 54 – Athens, OH to Parkersburg, WV

Miles today – just 40

Total miles – 3137

July 28^th was Donna’s birthday so I took a rest day and we hung out in Athens OH, home of Ohio University. We were surprised at the size of the University which has an enrollment of over 16,000 students.  It is the oldest university in Ohio and the 9^th oldest public university in the US founded in 1804.  We walked the streets of a typical college town and had a really good lunch at Casa Nuevo.  Everything on the menu was made from fresh local ingredients.  It was “pre-college” week so lots of incoming freshmen students and their parents made finding a proper place to stay a challenge.  We had Donna’s birthday dinner at Cutlers at the University Inn which was very nice.

This morning we had breakfast at Bob Evans (oh, boy!) and I hit the road at 9:00 am.  The rain caused me to not be real excited about getting an early start and I figured I would be safer if I  waited past rush hour traffic.  Then I realized I had an important conference call at noon and I needed to be at a place where I could use my computer and take the call.  I had three hours to cover 40 miles…could I do it?  I rode out East State Street and on to route 50 in a light rain.  I decided to try to complete the 40 miles without stopping so I hammered down the road.

I saw this sign of affirmation on route 50.  Ladies please note that the shortest way to Coolville is through Guysville.

 Route 50’s shoulder changed three times from bad (rumble strips) to great (9 ft of concrete) to just OK (lose gravel).  I left Ohio and entered West Virginia at 11:20.  It looks like I can make it to the hotel by noon. 

I pulled up to the historic Blennerhassett Hotel at 11:56 ran in the door and, dripping wet from the rain, set up my computer in the lobby library and logged on to my call…whew!  Made it.

Parkersburg is known as one of the most haunted cities in the country.  The hotel doesn’t advertise that it has ghosts and Donna’s head hasn’t spun around so I think we’re good.  We took a walk up to a section of town that has a walking tour of historic homes…and we got rained on…what is it with me and the rain on this trip?

David

July 29, 2009

Day 52 – Chillicothe, OH to Athens, OH

Miles today – 62

Total miles – 3097

I did a somewhat hilly 62 miles today which was a bit challenging after the 98 miles yesterday.  The weather was perfect…the heat didn’t come until after lunch.  Road conditions varied greatly on route 50.  Leaving Chillicothe was dangerous because there was no shoulder and lumber trucks use this road a lot.  As I rode further into the country traffic decreased but the shoulders did not improve much.  What I noticed is that the road conditions changed as I passed signs that announced what county I was entering. Some county roads were great and some looked like they had been resurfaced by two guys with a wheelbarrow and a stone rake.  I had this idea that the bad roads were a result of the county politicians skimming money from the funds that were supposed to be used to repair the roads…but, that wouldn’t really happen, right?

Today was just a day.  No great scenery.  I didn’t meet anybody interesting.  I did see a sign that advertised “Yard Sale…Inside” which I thought was funny but I didn’t feel like stopping to take a picture.

When a got to the outskirts of Athens, route 50 became a highway with no shoulders and I found myself riding in the right lane of a two lane highway with fast traffic.  I pedaled as fast as I could and took the first exit ramp and found myself on the campus of Ohio University.  The University was founded in 1804 and has a student enrollment of 21,000.  I was surprised by the size of the school and the campus is very impressive.  The town center’s streets are all brick paved which was really fun on a bicycle (sarcasm).  I stopped and asked a local to direct me to my motel.  It’s new student week at the University so all of the hotels are full.  After a seven hour drive, Donna met me at 3:00 at my motel.  She is joining me for a few days to celebrate her birthday.  Taking a rest day tomorrow and visiting historic Nelsonville, OH.

David

July 27, 2009  

Day 51 – Cincinnati, OH to Chillicothe, OH

Miles today – 98

Total miles – 3035

I watched the channel 12 piece on my ride last night.  It was great but they referred to me as "this Seattle man..."  I suppose they assumed if I started in Seattle I must be from there. 

After two days of leisure, I am back on the road with a long day in front of me…98 miles to Chillicothe, OH.  The maps all directed me to leave Cincinnati on route 50, the Columbia Parkway, which I knew I could find by heading down Fifth Street.  I left the hotel and rode down to Starbucks for a coffee and breakfast sandwich.  The plan was to get on the road by 7:00 am.  I got in line behind a guy who spent 5 minutes giving the barrister detailed instructions on how to make his drink.  Then he pulled his wallet, as thick as a club sandwich, from his front pocket and began to rummage through it for his Starbucks debit card.  This took another 5 minutes.  Then, as the line behind me grew longer, he decided to conduct a lecture about politics in Ethiopia and its coffee export policies.  The barrister was so sorry I had to wait through all of this that she gave me a courtesy card good for a free drink the next time I visit Starbucks.

Finally, I took my coffee and sat at a table outside where a few early birds, also enjoying coffee, started pelting me with questions.  Two of the guys rode and were very interested in my bike and the ride logistics.  They asked how I was getting out of town and when I told them route 50 they advised against it…too much traffic.  They directed me to get on Eastern Avenue. At 7:20 (thanks to weird dude) I headed out of town.  As I approached route 50 I discovered that the Cincinnati Triathlon was being held today and that route 50 was closed to traffic…schwing!  I could ride on 50 with no traffic so I ignored E\astern Avenue and rode alone on route 50.  I didn’t see a single car or person for 10 miles.  The road has a great view of the river and some great homes up on the hills.

The problem began when the triathlon course ended and I was still on route 50 and started seeing signs that the road was restricted…no pedestrians or bicycles allowed…oops! I biked on deciding to ignore the signs (and the law) because, at this time of the morning, there was no traffic.  Finally the highway transitioned from two lane highway to suburban roadway.  I cycled through the towns of Mariemont and Milford, two beautiful villages.  I have to say that I fell in love with Cincinnati and surrounding towns.  I could easily live here.

In Terrance Park I was joined on the road by two road bikers, Erin and Judy, who were out doing a morning loop ride.  We chatted as we rode.  I told them about my ride and the Arthritis Foundation and Erin excitedly told me that she was in the process of being certified as a tai chi instructor and will be doing classes for people with arthritis.  They wanted me to join them for their loop but I had 88 more miles to ride so I couldn’t.

The landscape transitioned again from suburban to rural and I passed through a string of small towns that are scattered along route 50.  I saw this sign that seemed redundant to me…

I stopped in Hillsboro for lunch.  I wasn’t going to stop here but I saw this sign which seemed to command that I EAT, so I did.

With a full belly and a nice wind at my back (yes, finally…a wind at my back!) I peddled on to Chillicothe.  There was a custom car show at the restaurant in front of my motel so I checked out some local custom builds.

It felt great to hammer out 98 miles without too much trouble.  I’ve done over 3000 miles! I have a shorter day tomorrow and Donna is rejoining me so we can celebrate her birthday on the 28^th.

David

July 26, 2009

Days 49 and 50 Rest days in Cincinnati

Because I was a day ahead of schedule, I decided to spend Friday and Saturday in Cincinnati. “Rest” is a relative term because the Arthritis Foundation staff and volunteers had some plans for my two days.  On Friday morning I was picked up at my hotel by Pam Fields.  We briefly visited the Arthritis Foundation office in Cincinnati and met the staff.  We picked up Barbara Perez, the Chapter President and we drove out into the countryside to Camp Joy where 44 kids with arthritis were finishing their week of summer camp.  The kids gathered in a pavilion and I spoke to them briefly about my ride and why I was doing it…mostly for them.  They had lots of good questions and they made me an honorary camper by giving me a tee shirt that they all signed…then it was into the pool for a swim for them. 

My good friend and fellow Arthritis Board member, Janalee Taylor drove me over to Cincinnati Children’s Hospital, an amazing place where kids come from all of the country and the world to be treated by some of the best pediatric specialist in the US.  Janalee is a nurse practitioner in the pediatric rheumatology department. Interestingly, Cincinnati Children’s is a client of my company, Willis, so Janalee took me up to meet Scott Hamlin, the CFO who is our primary business contact.  I’ve been in a lot of hospitals over the years and I can tell you that this place is special.

Friday night Barbara, Janalee and her husband, Jack took me across the river into KY where we had dinner on the deck overlooking the river with a view of the Cincinnati’s skyline. 

Friday night I walked down to Fountain Square and listened to some live music.  An indie-pop band, Bad Veins, was doing a CD release party.

On Saturday morning, I rode down to Sawyer Point to meet some kids with arthritis and their families.  Thunderstorms were moving through so we met under the bridge rather than in the park.  I was impressed that these families came out in such foul weather to talk with me but that’s what families do to support their kids and the Arthritis Foundation.  We were met there by the mobile film van from channel 13.  I talked to the kids for a while and answered questions from parents.  The news guy shot some film and interviewed me for the 6:00 news.  The Foundation staff presented me with a huge cookie with lettering on it congratulating me for exceeding my fundraising goal.

It was so great to use my rest days to promote the work of the Arthritis Foundation, raise awareness about arthritis and see how the Cincinnati arthritis community is working on behalf of adults and kids with arthritis.  Thanks Barbara, Pam and Janalee for making my stay in Cincinnati so special.

David

July 25, 2009

Day 48 – North Vernon, IN to Cincinnati, OH

Miles today – 75

Total miles – 2937

I left North Vernon, Indiana this morning under cloudy skies.  After yesterday’s rain, I was hoping that the skies wouldn’t open up again today…dream on.  I continued on route 50 toward Versailles, IN and the rain began as a fine mist then came down in earnest. I didn’t even bother putting on the rain pants despite the fact that the weather had become unseasonably cool. The rain let up as I arrived in Aurora so I stopped for lunch and dried off.  It felt great to get back on the bike without the rain.  Of course, as soon as I got started, it began to rain again. 

I had found out about a trail that began in Aurora so I pulled into the historic old part of town. 

 I asked one person on the street about the trail head and she had never heard of the trail.  Then I spotted a truck parking down the street that had a “parks and recreation” logo on it.  The nice young man driving the truck walked me down a small side street and pointed to a parking lot about one block away…it was the trail head for the Dearborn Trail that would take me from Aurora to Lawrenceburg, IN along the Ohio River levee. 

The trail ends at the Hollywood Casino.  But it ends at the top of the levee so I had to carry my bike down a flight of steep stairs to get down to the road. 

 Outside of Lawrenceburg, route 50 becomes a four lane highway with absolutely no shoulder.  I hoped that drivers in the right lane would see my flashing led lights and my bright yellow rain jacket.  About half way to Anderson, OH it started to rain again.  I parked under a tree and waited it out because it looked like one of those quick summer showers.  10 minutes later (just enough time to soak me again), it stopped raining and I continued.

In Anderson, OH I was told by my friends from Cincinnati to get on the ferry and cross over to Kentucky.  The Anderson Ferry has been in operations since 1812.

On the KY side I rode on route 8 East toward Covington, KY.  The local Arthritis Foundation staff had arranged to have a volunteer, Tom Pack, pick me up and drive me across the bridge and back into OH.  They had also arranged a very nice room at a hotel in downtown Cincinnati.  This place is definitely a step up from the lodging I have been accustomed to.

Yesterday, I saw on my website that I had reached my fundraising goal of $50,000.  Another corporate donation should be posted soon which will take me to $55,000.  A special thanks to all of you who have contributed.  I am overwhelmed by your generosity.

David

July 23, 2009

Day 48 Bedford, IN to North Vernon, IN

Miles today – 53

Total miles – 2862

I woke up this morning and turned on the TV to get an update on the Tour de France.  The Tour’s day started in the rain and involved a series of rolling hills.  Little did I know that my ride today would mirror the Tour.  I looked out the front door of my slightly depressing motel room and was greeted by a gloomy, rainy day.  The sky was gray and you could just tell that it was going to rain all day.  (The weather report tonight announced that we had three inches of rain here today.) The only bright thought I had was that I had planned a 53 mile day, not a 75 mile day.  I rode into town and stopped at the Breakfast Barn for eggs and pancakes.  Reluctantly, after postponing my start as long as I could, I decided to gut it out and began my ride in a steady downpour around 8:30.

Rain, truck traffic, rolling hills and narrow road shoulders made today’s ride a white knuckle day.  One feed hauler refused to yield the shoulder and came very close to me.  That experience made me realize how dangerous my day really was.  Frankly, I was anxious for the day to end.  This picture pretty much sums it up. At least this guy moved over a little.

I stopped for lunch in Brownstown and peddled through Seymour, IN which is a very busy four lane road of congested commercialism.  I was glad to blow through there as fast as I could.  The rain never let up and, in fact frequently got worse.  I searched the sky for some sign of blue or clearing but it never came. I finally finished in North Vernon.  I had to ask the desk staff for towels and stayed out under the portico drying off before I could walk into the lobby.  The hotel doesn’t have a guest laundry so I have clothing hanging all over my room hoping it will dry by tomorrow.

Man, I hope this rain stops by tomorrow morning.  I have a 75 mile day planned.

David

July 22, 2009

Day 47 Vincennes, IN to Bedford, IN

Miles today – 68

Total miles – 2809

I got on the road at 8:00 am after “free breakfast” at the Vincennes Holiday Express.  I hopped on the scale in the fitness center and discovered that I have gained a few ponds!  Yikes. I’ve been eating anything I want to and thought I was getting away with it.  I need to change my habits for the remainder of the trip.  No more raiding the candy machines at the motels at night for me. 

My travels today continued on Route 50 across Indiana.  The weather has been unseasonably cool and today was another perfect day for cycling.  The shoulder of the road varies and soon after I passed the outskirts of Vincennes I hit concrete highway with rumble strips that extend the entire width of the shoulder.  Note to Indiana Department of Transportation…you really don’t need to put rumble strips across the entire shoulder.  If a car goes off the road at 65 mph and hasn’t corrected by the time the cross all 10 feet of the shoulder, they are pretty much screwed anyhow.  How about leaving the last 2 feet as smooth concrete for us folks that might want to use Rt. 50 as a byway to travel through your scenic State.  The rumble strips continued for 20 miles with no other route options.

I needed to pick up some water and some sun screen lotion and found myself turning into the Wal*Mart in Washington, IN.  People have suggested that this trip will change me in some way.  Well, I have been in Wal*Mart twice and have eaten in McDonalds twice.  I hadn’t done either of those things in 10 years…desperation will cause you to take drastic measures.  What’s next?  Will I find myself buying a ticket for a WWF event?

Nice, flat route 50 continued the entire way into Loogootee, IN where I visited McDonalds for an early lunch.  A tiny voice in my head actually told me to turn around and grab lunch because I just wasn’t sure I would have food options for a while.  I’m glad I did because that little voice in my head was right.  P.S. I had a grilled chicken sandwich and a diet coke. no fries.  That visit to the scale this morning set me straight.

After Loogootee (cool name for a town), I began a huge downhill.  This sounds like a good thing but I tried to recall the uphill climb that resulted in this downhill.  There wasn’t one which meant that I will be climbing soon.  I was right.  Route 50 cuts through Hosier National Forest.  (What is a Hosier, anyhow?) .  The scenery transformed from corn fields to deeply forested mountains.  The views were nice but the price paid were the hills I climbed. 

I encountered more road construction but not anything insurmountable.  I don't know what gypsum is but a lot of it comes from this area and trucks make lots of trips on route 50 carrying it.

My bike computer battery died again today so I hit CVS (they have them here in Indiana) in Bedford and settled into my motel, The Rosemount.  I had dinner at Mamma’s which offered “Mexican, American and Italian” cuisine.

David

July 21, 2009

Day 46 Salem, IL to Vincennes, ID

Miles today – 84

Total miles – 2741

Illinois is a lot like its native son, Abe Lincoln…tall and skinny.  I made quick work of this State, covering the southern tip (Abe’s ankles I guess) in two days.  I entered Indiana at the end of today. Illinois is “The Land of Lincoln” and Indiana is “The Crossroads of America”.  The Indiana sign at the border also points out that the State is “Lincoln’s Boyhood Home”…do I sense a little cross border rivalry here?

The surprise of the day was a very pleasant visit to Olney, IL.  I determined that I would hit this small town for an early lunch because there wasn’t much beyond.  As I rode into town, I discovered an historic downtown area with attractive storefronts.  I looked up a side street and saw a coffee shop and café in a beautifully restored Victorian building.  I stopped in and had a simple turkey sandwich on toasted sourdough bread and a great iced chai tea.

The ride today was on Route 50 all day.  This is a flat road with shoulders that varied from great to nonexistent. I hit one section were the roadway was being torn up and the road surface was simply not suited for riding.  I jumped over to an access road that ran parallel which I believe was the old Route 50. Just past the construction area, old Route 50 became un-rideable also so I rejoined 50. 

I crossed the Wabash River which forms the border between IL and IN.

I called ahead to the hotel and the young guy behind the desk told me to take the Rt. 41 ramp and come south.  I got to the Rt 61 (not 41) ramp and it was not only closed but had been completely removed.  So, I pulled a somewhat dangerous move a road down the on-ramp against traffic.  When I got to the hotel, the same young man directed me to a restaurant that was about six blocks walk from the hotel.  When I got there the placed had a sign on the door that it was “closed indefinitely for major renovations”.  This guy is batting a 1000 with the bad information.  I ended up eating at Dennys because I didn’t feel like walking any more.

I am now on Eastern Standard Time…only 19 more days to go.  I am having mixed feelings about this adventure ending.

David

July 20, 2009

Day 45 – St Louis, MO to Salem, IL

Miles today – 65

Total miles – 2654

I took a rest day yesterday.  I did some errands in the morning (laundry, blood work at the lab, emails) then Linda from the Arthritis Foundation picked me up and we went into St Charles for lunch and coffee.  Saturday was a beautiful weather day in St Charles so it was crowded with tourists.  St Charles is loaded with great old historic buildings that have been restored. 

We sat out on the street at a café, talking and people watching.  I met this unusual person outside a book store (OK, she was promoting a book about the origin of fairies)

Linda helped me pick up and transport my bike from the local bike shop where I had it outfitted with new skins and a re-wrap of the handlebars.  I will risk flying in the face of superstition and tell you that I have traveled 2654 miles without a flat tire (I’m knocking on wood while typing this).  It would be cool if I could do the entire ride without a flat.  I am developing a “how to ride without getting a flat” theory which I will share at the appropriate time.

Last night I took the hotel shuttle a few miles to the Ameristar Hotel and Casino. I grabbed a quick dinner at the seafood restaurant and wandered into the casino and sat at a roulette table.  I like playing roulette to pass some time.  I started with $100 playing my favorite numbers, 14 and 28 (Donna’s birthday).  14 hit early then 28 hit about ten spins later. I played for about two hours until some guy sat next to me a started chain smoking.  Missouri is one of the few States that haven’t restricted smoking in public places and nobody here seems to care.  The smoke irritated me so, up $158, I cashed in and left feeling good about winning.

This morning I asked Linda to drive me over the bridges because I couldn’t figure out a safe and uncomplicated method to get to the other side.  She dropped me off where Rt. 270 and Rt. 4 intersect.   Good bye MO and hello IL. It was another perfect weather day for bike riding so I rode to south to Lebanon, IL and stopped at a convenience store to get water.  A local motorcycle rider pulled in and struck up a conversation while I downed a glazed donut.  He told me that a cross country bicyclist who was riding for “some political cause” had been run over by a truck a few weeks ago on Rt. 50.  He warned me to be careful.  Why do people insist on telling these types of stories to bike riders?  I know there is danger on the road.  A woman from Phoenix riding cross country was killed by a truck in Lander two days before I rode through on the same road.  I do everything I can to be safe. I have LED lights flashing and I wear a bright reflective vest.  I try to be as visible as possible.  Beyond that, I can’t do much more.

Hey, I saw two very dead armadillos in Missouri.  I asked somebody about this and they confirmed that the armadillo has, in deed, migrated north from Texas into Missouri.  The local buzzards enjoy the road kill, thinking that it is possum on the half shell.

And look what I found in Illinois…I didn’t even know it was lost…but I found it. Who do I tell?

I rode on to Salem today so I am a bit ahead of schedule.  I stopped at a very nice local motel…$36 per night.

David

July 19, 2009

Day 42 & 43 – Hartsburg, MO to Peers, MO to St Charles

Miles today – 73 + 40 = 113

Total miles – 2589

Day 42 - Jeanette, the owner of the Globe Hotel made Dan and me breakfast at 7:00 am.  Becky and Jeff slept in.  Jeanette makes a mean zucchini muffin and she insisted that I take four of them with me on the bike when I left.  I wanted to get an early start because this was going to be another 75 mile day and I needed to be in Peers before the Peers General Store closed (I’ll explain later).  Here's Dan and Jeanette..

I headed east on the KATY Trail…I would be on the trail all day.  The weather was perfect in the morning..few clouds and cooler temperatures under a blue sky.  I put the Eagles on the iPod a shoved off.

I was surprised to find the trail in disrepair in spots.  It was blocked in two places by downed trees. 

There were some areas that were seriously washed out that came up quickly and could be dangerous if a rider didn’t see the deep holes.  I had to stop and walk the bike in a few places to get around the damage.

I should have stopped in Mokane for an early lunch but pushed on arriving at a small tavern in Rhineland.  The owners weren’t very friendly but the food was good.  I ate quickly and got back on the road.  My destination today was the Peers General Store operated by Barb.  She has fixed up one room above the store but you have to get there before 5:00 because the store closes.  Basically, you get locked inside the store at closing time.  When you get hungry, you simply go down into the store and help yourself and write down what ever you ate on a piece of tablet paper on the counter.  In the morning, Barb comes in and makes breakfast sandwiches, you settle up with her by paying for your room and anything that you consumed during the night.  Being locked in the store at night isn’t a problem because the population of Peers, MO is 11 so there isn’t much to do anyhow.  I talked to Barb for a while then retired to my room to get caught up on work and write the blog.  Then I discovered that I had no internet connection so I apologize that this is being posted a day late. 

Day 43 – I was interviewed by Cindy, a freelance writer for the Warren County Journal this morning at the Peers General Store.  We shot a few pictures on the trail and I was off St Charles, only 40 miles down the trail.  After three days of 75 miles each, I was glad to be riding a shorter day to St Charles where the KATY Trail ends. 

Barb says she remembers fondly our visit a few years ago.  Sure, she took me for $20 in a game of Texas Holdem.  Now that she has grandchildren, she doesn’t play cards anymore so no chance to win my money back.  Here's Barb...

The weather today was perfect for riding.  It was 52 degrees this morning and hit 76 degrees as a high.

On the trail I met John and we rode together for an hour and talked.  John retired to Herman, MO and is teaching at a community college.  Nice man and while we rode I took a picture of corn.  Exciting, you say.  You can’t appreciate without a point of reference that this corn stand 10 feet tall which I think is as high as an elephant’s eye.  I have never seen corn like this…a result of rains that came after the crop had started to grow…a-maze-ing.

I finished in St Charles and was met by Linda from the local Arthritis Chapter. St Charles is a really quaint part of St Louis with lots of boutique shops and restaurants.

We took my bike over to a local bike shop for new tires and a few others repairs, had a great lunch at an outdoor café and headed to my hotel in Earth City.  I like that name but found out later that Earth City was named because the farmers in the area sold there very rich soil to other farmers.  Linda had organized a reception at the hotel where I would be staying.  I had the opportunity to talk with 15 people who are donors for the Arthritis Foundation…nice people with lots of questions about my ride and my motivation.

I’m taking a day off tomorrow.  I need to finalize the route for the remainder of my trip…slightly important.

David

July 18, 2009

Day 41 – Sedalia, MO to Hartsburg, MO

Miles today – 76

Total miles – 2476

I left my comfortable hotel room at the historic Hotel Bothwell at 7:30, an early start but I anticipated a long and hot day according to the forecast.  You’ve heard people say, “It’s not the heat. It’s the humidity.”  That was the story of my day.  Don’t get me wrong.  It was hot today but the humidity had to be 90%.  It rained a few times but a hardly noticed because I was dripping more than the rain.  Conditions like this just suck the energy right out of you.  I was careful to follow the old adage, “take in at least as much fluid as you sweat out.”  And I made sure to replenish the electrolytes. 

I put the Beatles on my iPod again and pedaled on.  I saw two large deer on the trail and a few miles later a huge bird flew between the trees and landed in the middle of the trail about thirty feet ahead of me.  At first I couldn’t recognize the type of bird but it had a very large wing span.  I began to brake and reach for my camera but before I could stop the bird turned its head toward me and I was staring at the largest owl I had ever seen.  My approach startled the majestic animal and off it flew before I could get my camera out.  I think it is unusual to see an owl during the day but I had seen snakes sunning themselves on the trail so I concluded that the owl was looking for a meal.

The Beatles catalogue completed, I switched over to my Rolling Stones collection. I’m in a classic rock kinda mood.  Here are some scenes from the  trail.

In Booneville I passed the casino where Paul, David and I all won money five years ago.  It brought back fond memories of that trip.  Just after Booneville, I was joined on the trail by Dan and Candy Ashcraft, a father and daughter team, from Nebraska.  Dan worked in Spain for a Christian organization and Candy is a nurse.  We talked and rode together for almost twenty miles and it made the time go by quickly.  I stopped in the quaint town of Rocheport to find lunch and Dan and Candy rode on.  They were vacationing and doing sections of the trail each day.  Dan’s wife would pick them up at the end of their day’s ride.  Nice folks.

Lunch in Rocheport at Abigail’s was unexpectedly wonderful.  The town gets tourists and has responded by fixing up many of the old structures and there are now two very good cafes to choose from.

After lunch I felt renewed energy and hit the trail with gusto which lasted about 10 miles.  Then I hit a wall…not literally…I mean my energy was sapped.  The last 15 miles into Hartsburg were going to be tough but, with no other option, I pedaled on.  The iPod music helped…”jumpin’ Jack Flash, it’s a gas, gas, gas!”  Ah, the Stones came to my emotional rescue.  Somebody with a sense of humor, knowledge of Cadillac Ranch and way too much time on their hands put this display next to the trail.

Finally, I arrived in Hartsburg.  Again, I had forgotten that this was the town where David, Paul and I had lunch in a nifty little café next to a great bike shop in the middle of nowhere.  Sadly, both the bike shop and the café were gone.  But the Globe Hotel, which is really a B&B, is open and doing fine. 

As I rode into town, I met a family, Mark and Becky Siepker and their son, Jeff.  They were also staying at the Globe.  Jeff is developmentally disabled so rides a very cool tandem with his Dad. As I looked closer I saw that their bike was a custom build by Steve Bilenky from Philadelphia. I know Steve as he has done so work on my bike and he is an absolute master frame fabricator. It turns out that Mark and Jeff are touring on two trails from Omaha to St Louis to raise money for the Ollie Webb Center, a facility in Omaha that offers training and services to developmentally disabled citizens.  When we learned that all of the restaurants in Hartsburg were closed, Mark asked me if I would like to join them in a van ride to Ashland to find a place to eat.  Becky drives their van to the end point of each day and bikes solo to join Mark and Jeff so they can all finish together at the end of the day.  We drove into Ashland and had a very good meal at Woody’s Grub and Pub.  Finding that they had no ice cream for Jeff and me, we piled into the van and headed for McDonalds, the only ice cream available in Ashland.  Dan, Becky and Jeff are special people and I enjoyed the opportunity to spend some time with them.

I have another 75 mile day tomorrow so I’d better hit the sack.

David

July 15, 2009

Day 40 – Adrian, MO to Sedalia, MO

Miles today – 75

Total miles – 2400

I was awakened this morning, not by my cell phone alarm, but by loud thunder. Uh Oh!  I wanted to get a jump on the day because I had a 75 miles ahead of me.  I left my modest motel at 7:30 and had breakfast and stocked up on fluids at the convenience store down the street. 

My map took me on route 18 east toward Clinton, MO. I was getting rained on but the temperature was hot already and the cool rain felt good.  A women coming into the convenience store as I was coming out cheerfully told me. “You’re gonna get rained on today.”  Gee, thanks.  I responded, “Probably, but it’s only water.”

I was surprised when I hit a series of rolling hills for the first 15 miles out of Adrian.  There were no flat spots between the hills, just up and down.  Finally I hit a flat section that took me into Clinton.  I had been in Clinton a few years ago when my friends David and Paul and I rode the KATY trail.  Arriving late by shuttle service, we had only seen the Safari Motel (that’s a whole story on its own) out on the highway.  Too bad we never got into town back then because I found it to be a charming place with plenty of good restaurants to choose from for my lunch.  I asked for directions to the trailhead and rode out of town until I recognized the place where David, Paul and I had begun our ride years ago.

So, the first 35 miles of my day was on paved roads and the second 40 miles of my day was on crushed stone trail.  I have my iPod with me but haven’t listened to it once.  I don’t like wearing earphones while I ride because I want to hear oncoming traffic, horns, birds, etc .  Since I was now on a trail without cars and trucks, I figured it was OK.  I plugged it in and began listening to the entire Beatles catalogue.  I’m glad there were no other riders on the trail because I did sing out load to some of my favorites.

The KATY trail is the longest continuous trail in the United States.  It’s well maintained and a joy to bike on.  Missouri deserves kudos for building this trail in the first place and then maintaining it as perfectly as they do. 

 I met a work crew who were trimming back the brush and trees that were encroaching on the trail.  At one point, even though the skies were blue, I got rain on again. I looked above me and there was one dark cloud following me up the trail while everything else was blue and dry.  I felt like that Peanuts cartoon character.  What the heck?  Really, the rain felt good and it washed some of the trail grime off of my bike.

 I rode into Sedalia remembering that there was a restored rail station there.  I stopped in to have an ice cream at the small store there and ask the nice lady behind the counter for a hotel recommendation.  She suggested the Hotel Bothwell that was only six blocks away in the center of the old town section of Sedalia.  She offered to call ahead to make sure they had rooms available and had them hold the only room that was left.  The Hotel Bothwell is a restored old hotel with a lot of local character, just the kind of place I like. Thanks to the nice lady behind the counter.

 I learned from my waitress at dinner that ragtime music was born here in Sedalia and that Scott Joplin, though born in Texas, moved here to join the ragtime music movement.  Sedalia hosts a huge ragtime festival every summer.

Earlier, as I rode into town, I realized that the bike shop across the street is where David, Paul and I rented our bikes for the previous trip.  I had forgotten that I had been across the street from my current hotel five years ago.

Forty days down and twenty five to go. 

David

July 14, 2009

Day 39 Garnett, KS to Adrian, MO

Miles today – 58

Total Miles – 2325

At 7:30 my friend Charlie from the Garnett Inn took a few digital pictures for the local paper and I rolled out of Garnett under dark skies.  The rain was headed northeast and I was headed directly east.  I hoped to be able to ride out from under the rain clouds which is exactly what happened.  I did get rained on but not enough to bother with rain gear and it actually felt good as the morning temperatures increased. 

After 4 miles on route 169, I turned east on Rd 2000 which, as I suspected, was gravel.  I would travel the next 20 miles on stone.  The biggest concern I had about gravel was the possibility for a “pinch flat”.  This happens when you run over a large rock and the tire gets pinched between the wheel rim causing a flat.  My Schwalbe tires once again performed beautifully.

I climbed a few hills and rode into La Cygne (pronounced La Seen)

here's the lake and local generating plant.

After passing through La Cygne I left Kansas and rode into Missouri.  Only this small sign told me that I had crossed over the border. I stopped in Amsterdam, MO for lunch.  The entrance to town actually had two small Dutch windmills trying to make me believe I had been magically transported to Holland.  But then I saw the grain elevator and knew I was still in Missouri.  Can’t fool me.  The town had seen better days but the food at the Amsterdam Café was very good and the staff was friendly.

In Merwin I turned on to route 18 and headed for Adrian, my final destination for the day.  I spotted these road sculptures in one of the two houses that make up the entire town of Merwin.

In Adrian I was met by a very special welcoming committee. Brad Ziegler and his daughter, Lauren had driven all the way from their home in Kansas City to welcome me to the great State of Missouri.  Brad has been following my blog and wanted to do something special.  He and Lauren had brought me KC BBQ ribs, baked beans, potato salad, and two KC micro-brewery beers and some chocolates.  KC is famous for its own special style of ribs and they were absolutely delicious.  We sat in chairs in the motel’s tike bar and we talked about the ride, Lauren’s first year in college and other stuff.  What a nice thing to do.  I really enjoyed the company and, of course, the feast.

David

July 13, 2009

 Here are a few pictures from yesterday of the Prairie Spirit Trail

Day 38 – Burlington, KS to Garnett, KS

Miles today – 41

Total miles – 2267

Today was shaping up to be, well...boring.  But one never knows what lies around the corner.

I am no longer using The Adventure Cycling Association maps so have been using Google Maps to figure out how to get from point A to point B.  What I have learned in the last two days is that there is really no good way to go west to east in eastern Kansas.  This morning I rode into “downtown” Burlington looking for breakfast only to discover that there were no restaurants in town.  I returned north of town and had a breakfast burrito at Sonic, a first for me.  I headed out of town under cloudy skies and a light drizzle.  The forecast was for scattered showers all morning.  Following my handwritten map (the motel didn’t have a printer) I continued on the paved road until I took the first turn which I was surprised to see had a gravel surface. I was sure that this was just transitional to the next paved road but when I got the next turn, a road that I would be on for 8 miles, was also gravel…and the bridge was out.

 Google really doesn’t distinguish between paved and gravel surfaces.  My next turn came when the road came to a dead end.  Left or right? Hum?  Then a voice from the small house on the corner asked, “Are you lost?”  This gentleman assumed I was lost because nobody uses these roads unless it’s harvest season.  I answered, “No, surprisingly I know exactly where I am.”  He approached across the lawn and introduced himself as Chuck.  He worked in Garnett and farmed 10 acres out here in the country.  He asked me where I was headed and suggested an alternative route but couldn’t tell me the names of some of the roads. Chuck was concerned that I would be riding on route 169 which he told me was a narrow two lane road with no shoulder and used by local trucks.  I just wanted to get off gravel and it was Sunday so I was hoping traffic wouldn’t be too heavy.  I decided to stay with my original plan.  He asked me why I was out here in the middle of nowhere riding a bicycle and I explained that I was riding to raise money and awareness of arthritis. He asked me if I was accepting donations so I reached to give him a card and he said, “No, will you take a donation now?” Reaching for this wallet he handed me some cash and wished me a safe journey.  Thanks, Chuck!

The weather was improving.  I rode on with some trepidation about what route 169 would be like.  Then I encountered the biggest surprise of the day.  As I rode through the small hamlet of Welda I noticed a road sign with a picture of a bicycle…curious.  I rode a few more yards and discovered that I arrived at the Welda trailhead of the Prairie Spirit Trail.  This is a Rails-to-Trails bike path that extends from Iola, KS to Ottawa, KS and just happens to run parallel to the dreaded Route 169.  I confirmed this fact with two bike riders, Bill and Chris, who were out for a Sunday ride.  They confirmed that I could ride the trail the whole way into Garnett…cool. The three of us decided to ride together to Garnett and Chris directed me to the road that leads to my motel. 

The Garnett Inn and RV Park.  I was greeted by Charlie who noticed my riding jersey and started asking lots of questions about my ride and the Arthritis Foundation.  We talked about his family members who had arthritis.  Later Charlie offered to drive to the local convenience store and pick up some supplies that I needed for tomorrow.  I gave him a list and as soon as he was off duty, off he went.  He also informed me that he would be interviewing me and taking my picture tomorrow so that the local paper could do an article about my ride.  Charlie has things under control here in Garnett, KS.

Tomorrow promises more gravel roads as I try to get to Missouri.

David

July 12, 2009

Day 37 – Emporia, KS to Burlington, KS

Miles today 46

Total miles – 2226

Because I did 90 miles yesterday, I only had to ride 42 miles today to get to Burlington, KS. I stayed at the Holiday Express and worked until I could join the Arthritis Foundation Board meeting at 1:45 to give the Treasures report.  We decided it would be fun to hook up via Skype so I could deliver the report live from the road.  We had some fun with the technology.  I gave the report and jumped on the bike at 2:15. This is the latest I have started so I missed the morning coolness…it was hot in the afternoon with a slight breeze now coming from the east.  We had a thunderstorm last night and the wind direction changed but still not to my advantage.

 I actually did 46 miles today because Google Maps decided to send me in a circle in Emporia ad I got lost.  I stopped to ask directions at a home where I saw a couple painting a shed.  The older gentleman gave me very clear directions to get me back on track then started asking me very specific questions about my bike.  He was surprisingly knowledgeable about bikes.  Then he took me over to his truck and lifted a blanket off a completely restored 1961 Raleigh touring bike that was originally outfitted with Campie components.  The front fork was completely chromed.  The bike is worth a fortune to a knowledgeable collector.  I wouldn’t have met this guy had I not gotten temporarily lost.  Looking for that silver lining.

I finally found Old Route 50 and headed east on some rolling hills.  The heat bounced off the blacktop road surface.  The most important thing to remember today was hydrate.  I knew that if I didn’t drink water and supplement with electrolytes, I would probably bonk or worse…heat stroke is a possibility.  I made sure all water bottles were always full and that I was drinking regularly.  I came upon these cows in the pond keeping cool.

They were fine there until the Director of the Valley Club came along and made them get out because the cows were altering the complexion of the pond’s ambiance.  (Is that PC?)

I biked on through Lebo, KS where I found no services.  Finally, I found the right turn onto Route 75 and headed into Burlington.  Lately I have had a craving for cold chocolate milk.  I spied a convenience store half way to my destination and stopped in for a milk.  I drank the entire container before I got to the checkout so gave the counter person an empty bottle to scan.

I arrived at my hotel and discovered it had no wifi.  I walked down to the corner Diary Queen for a small chocolate ice cream and was told they were out of chocolate.  Now, Diary Queen has two flavors; chocolate and vanilla.  How can they be out of chocolate?  The hardships I have to endure!  I logged on with broadband and drank another chocolate milk from the Thrifty Market and all is well with the world.

Today my wife Donna and I celebrate our 28^th wedding anniversary.  Her gift to me is understanding that we will not be together this year because this ride is important to people with arthritis.  Thanks, Donna.

David

July 11, 2009

Day 36 – Newton, KS to Emporia, KS

Miles today – 90

Total miles – 2178

The restaurant attached to my hotel said they opened at 7:00 am but when I tried the door at 7:00 am it was locked and the place was dark.  I’m half German so this drives me crazy.  As I rolled out of the parking lot in search of breakfast, the cook showed up on a BMX bicycle at 7:10…I think I’m glad I left.  I found a very nice pancake house just down the street and had my usual egg/pancake breakfast.  I wanted to get an early start because the weather report promised triple digit temperatures and possibly thunderstorms later in the day.

I have been asked by some friends not to mention the wind anymore…”shut up and pedal”, they say.  They say this while sitting next to the pool enjoying a cigar and an adult beverage.  The wind today was still out of the south but wasn’t really much of a factor for most of the day.  There, I said it.

The first part of my ride was a flat 38 miles from Newton to Cassoday, KS.  I stopped at 9:00 to join a conference call then pedaled on arriving in Cassoday at 11:30.  Cassoday  is a special place...check out the sign which says it all.

I met three young guys that I had seen on the road in Newton.  They were standing next to the road trying to hitchhike…the three of them with fully loaded bicycles.  They had gotten way behind their schedule and were trying to make up some time by getting a motorized ride.  I asked them about lunch spots and they directed me to the Cassoday General Store.  Really?   The general store had a buffet set up with BBQ ribs and pulled pork, beans, slaw, homemade ice cream….all you can eat for $7.25.  It was one of the best lunches of the entire trip.

Cassoday is my departure point from the Adventure Cycling Association route.  In skiing terms, I am off-piste from here to New Jersey.  After my great lunch, I headed north up route 177 which is designated as a scenic highway.  There is not much to see but rolling hills and the South Fort Farm which takes up most of the valley.  I wanted to stay in Bazaar, KS just because I liked the name

 but there was no place to stay so I pedaled on to Cottonwood Falls then to Strong City.  Still no suitable place to stay.  I had already pedaled 73 miles in the heat but I decided to continue on to Emporia, a town that I was sure would have a proper place to stay.  I rolled past some discount motels west of town and rode into Emporia hoping to find a hotel.  No luck.  The guy at the local bike shop directed me to retrace my route but I asked some folks at the shoe store and they told me of some newer better hotels just north of town.  I found a Holiday Inn Express and settled in…hot tub, again…and guess what…a Starbucks next door!

David

July 10, 2009

Day 35 – Nickerson, KS to Newton, KS

Miles today – 50

Total miles - 2088

I planned my departure from the exotic animal farm based on availability of breakfast which began at 8:00 am.  I got up at 7:00 and packed and loaded my bike so it would be ready to roll. When I stepped outside I noticed the wind had started early today and I knew I had one section at the end of the day that would turn me directly into a headwind.  I ate a huge B&B-style breakfast to store energy that I would need for the ride…at least that was my excuse.  Osama enjoyed his breakfast as well...

I wondered about the quantity of scrambled eggs until I saw this ostrich hatching.

I left my furry and feathered friends at 8:45 and followed the map into Nickerson, made a few turns as described on my maps and realized, after 2 miles of riding, that I had circled around to the back entrance of the exotic animal farm.  I guess I should have asked.  I was riding east and the wind was blowing from the south so I had a strong wind that was trying to blow me and the bike into the center of the road.  The wind was worse today than yesterday, probably averaging about 20 mph.  At one point I stopped to take a picture and the wind blew open my handlebar bag and lifted my maps out and sent them across the road and into a field.  I had to quickly lay the bike down and run after them before they were blown into the next county.

I followed the ACA maps on a road north of Hutchinson, KS or just Hutch as they call it in these here parts.  Nickerson  was thee biggest town in the area in the 1890’s but the county seat moved to Hutch and drained most of the population of Nickerson.  Today Hutchinson’s population is about 40,000.  Salt deposits were discovered here and now Morton and Burton salt companies are both headquartered here.  You can take tours of the mines.  Today one of the mines is used to store government documents and historic Hollywood stuff because the temperature and humidity are ideal for safekeeping.  One of my regrets on the trip is that I don’t have time to stop and take in some of the local activities…but, I can always come back.

I continued eastward through Medora and Buhler arriving in Hesston, KS at 1:00.  I found a lunch place called Scoops.  The owner greeted me with a smile and asked about my ride.  He was sympathetic to the wind situation.  I had a wonderful chicken fajita sandwich and, best of all; he had diet Stewart’s root beer (I had two).  When you’re on the road, you can find pleasure in the simplest of things.

After Hesston, I had to turn south into the jaws of the monster headwind.  I wasn’t looking forward to this part of the trip but, I didn’t have much of a choice.  The nice gentleman at Scoops looked at my map and suggested I just take Old Route 81 down to Newton.  It was shorter and not directly into the wind.  Both of those features appealed to me and I wondered why the ACA maps used a different route.  Once on Old 81 I discovered why…no shoulders and more traffic.  I was still desperate enough to tough it out to avoid a longer ride into a direct wind.  I arrived safely in Newton and pedaled to the Best Western which is on my route for tomorrow’s start and close to restaurants that I can walk to; both important criteria…and they have a working hot tube…bingo!  I feel guilty because I haven’t camped once in 35 days but not guilty enough to give up my air conditioned room with cable.

David

July 9, 2009

Day 34 – Great Bend, KS to Nickerson, KS

Miles today – 57

Total miles – 2038

I am officially half finished (mileage and riding days) with my trip. Amazing.

OK, today needs to be separated into three sections.  Section one begins with my traditional pancake and egg breakfast.  Then I worked the rest of the morning in my hotel room.  At 11:30 Denny and some very nice folks from the local Kansas arthritis community joined me at the hotel for some lunch and conversation.  They had lots of questions about my ride so far, my plans, my bike and my motivation.  At noon a reporter from the local paper interviewed me and took pictures.  Shortly after that, channel 3 news (NBC affiliate) showed up with a camera and shot footage of me riding and then interviewed me for the local news.  We plugged the fundraising walk that will be held in Great Bend in September and channel 3 promised to cover that as well.  Great publicity for our mission.  Thanks Denny for arranging all of this.  This was the first Chapter that used my ride to raise local awareness for the Arthritis Foundation and I think it was a success.

Section 2 of the day began at 1:00 pm when I mounted my trusty titanium steed and headed south… directly into (you guessed it) a 15 mph headwind for 20 miles in 97 degree sun! Ahhhhh!  I’m trying to stay positive but this part of the ride was awful.  I didn’t cry but I confess to some cursing out loud along the way.  There were times when I couldn’t ride faster than 7 mph and if I stopped pedaling, the wind would just stop me in my tracks.  When I finally reached route 19 and headed east, it didn’t get much better.  Now I had a 15 mph crosswind that tried to blow me off the road.  The only thing to be thankful for was that I was only riding 57 miles today.  The sun was blistering and I stopped several times to reapply sun screen.  I rode through Quivira National Wildlife Refuge and didn’t see any wildlife…Oh, I get it. A refuge is where they hide.  However, I was chased by man eating flies for about five miles.  They actually flew beside me while I rode and would land to take a bite when an opportunity arose.  Most of them met their maker when they landed…take that…smack!

This stretch of road is one of the more isolated I have been on.  There are no facilities, houses, convenience stores, gas stations…nothing.  I was glad I had stocked up on water and had a few protein bars with me.  As the Boy Scouts say…be prepared.

Section three of my day was passing through Nickerson and finding the Hedrick Exotic Animal Farm/B&B.  I didn’t get here until 7:15 pm thanks to the wind.  I met Molly, an exotic animal farmhand who told me that the only place to eat dinner closes at 8:00 and that it was back in town.  The thought of getting back on the bike and riding into town wasn’t that appealing.  Molly must have seen my expression and offered to drive me into town and come back and pick me up which she did.  Friendly folks here in Kansas. On the way into town Molly explained that Joe and Sondra Hedricks, the owners of the farm, both grew up around the rodeo.  Joe was a rodeo clown.  He had a zebra that did tricks and a bison that he could saddle and ride.  One day a friend suggested that he start a petting zoo and that began his enthusiasm for collecting and raising exotic animals.  Joe and Sondra own four traveling petting zoos that are on the road constantly. I discovered this place online when I was planning the trip and, given my tendency to stay in unusual places, this was a must.  When I got back from dinner, I asked Molly for permission to walk around the farm a take some pictures so here they are.

This my bunkhouse for the night.  I'm in the camel room.

 I'm not sure but I think this is the ostrich mating dance so, I got the heck out of there.

 Here's more of them ther cowmels hangin out with a striped horse....I declare!

David

July 8, 2009

Day 33 – Ness City, KS to Great Bend, KS

Miles today – 64

Total miles – 1981

33 days down and 32 to go.  Tomorrow I will hit the mileage halfway point as well.

I left Ness City, KS after a “real” breakfast (not convenience store microwave) at the Cactus Café.  I realized last night that I only had 32 miles to ride today because I had strung together two 80 mile days so I decided to pedal on through Rush Center, KS and ride all the way to Great Bend,  KS.  I had agreed to do my first personal appearance in Great Bend for the local Arthritis Chapter tomorrow so it would be easier to be there in the morning.  I have a few errands in the morning. Then I need to get on the bike a cover 52 miles in the heat of the afternoon to Nickerson to get back on schedule.

Local temperatures hit 97 today and I had wind out of the southwest in my face most of the day.  Who do I talk to about this wind?  One of the main reasons I decided to ride west to east was to have the wind mostly at my back.  I’d say it’s been 70% in my face and 30% at my back.  What’s up with that?  Come on wind, cooperate!

Being a city slicker, I believe these are straw bails and hay bails are the rectangular ones????

In Rush Center the ACA map turns south but I continued straight on Route 96.  I wondered why the ACA would make that move and learned quickly that it was to avoid some rolling hills.  Hills in Kansas, you ask?  I met a couple from Lawrence, KS a few weeks back traveling in Wyoming and we briefly talked.  When they learned that I would be riding through Kansas, the husband said, “Good, you can perpetuate the rumor that Kansas is flat.”  I found out today what he meant as I pedaled up those hills in the heat hoping that my water supply would last because there are no facilities between Rush Center and Great Bend…nothing.  I drank the last of my water about 4 miles outside of town, tilted my head into the wind and dug up a little reserve to finish. 

Riding into town, I noticed a few cows in a livestock pen on the border of town and one very strange looking cow in the bunch so I stopped to take this picture.

Don’t ask…I have no clue.

David

July 7, 2009

Day 32 – Leoti, KS to Ness City, KS

Miles today – 80

Total miles – 1917

I departed the Travelers Lodge at 7:30 after a small microwave breakfast and headed to Scott City 25 miles away where I thought I could eat a second, healthier breakfast. The morning started out hot so I knew this was going to be a scorcher.  I was glad to be out early.  There was no wind and the road was flat...really flat.  A few miles outside of Leoti I came upon a wind farm.  I counted 40 wind turbines slowly turning in the light breeze.  We need more of these in America...what a great way to generate electricity.

As it turns out I am cycling in Kansas during wheat harvesting season.  Here is how it works.  Farmers here plant huge fields of wheat.  A women how owns the Calico Apron Restaurant (where I ate my lunch today) told me she has 2000 acres of wheat planted.  Because it is inefficient for each farmer to own huge expensive combines (not columbine which is the State flower of Colorado that I had been seeing along the road for weeks) the farmers hire a contract service that swoops down and harvests the wheat.  These contractors start in Mississippi and move west.  Her service rolls in with six combines, a gas truck, trucks to haul the wheat to the grain elevators and a bunkhouse on wheels.  There are a number of these contractors operating in the area so the road I was riding on was also being used by “wide load” trucks.  I have to say that every one of them was courteous to cyclists but it made riding a bit dicey.

As I rode, I enjoyed the grassy smell of freshly cut wheat fields.  It didn't take much to imagine the smell of baking bread.  Then I passed a recently plowed and fertilized field.  Smell...not so good.  

I hit Scott City and found a small restaurant for my second breakfast.   I had a brief chat with a friendly elderly coupe at the next table who were interested in my ride and the Arthritis Foundation.  I keep hearing from other riders about how friendly people in Kansas are and so far, they’re right. However, I was amazed that almost everybody was smoking at every table in the place.  It was the only place in town so I stayed and ate then, glad to get out of there, I headed for Dighton.

I found the Calico Apron café and saw that there were two folding bikes (Bike Friday).  I had heard from others that there was a coupe from London on folding bikes pulling trailers headed west. 

In the restaurant I met Harry and Celia Lyons.  This was their fourth tour in the US.  I was surprised to learn that they had ridden their folding bikes on many trips all over the world.  We shared intelligence on the towns we had visited and departed on our respective routes, I toward Ness City.

I had scheduled a work conference call at 4:00 pm so I needed to cover 31 miles in a little over two hours.  The wind had picked up and was coming from the south southwest so it was giving me a slight nudge over my right shoulder all the way to Ness City.  I grabbed a sandwich at the Cactus Café and settled into the Derrick Motel (the hot tub is broken and the owner needs to get a motor from Denver…life in the boondocks).  About 10 miles outside town, I started to see working oil wells...wheat to oil...the Great Plains have everything.

This building is known as the Great Plains  "skyscraper" and was once the Ness County Bank building.

David

July 6, 2009

Day 31 – Eads, CO to Leoti, KS

Miles today – 79

Total miles – 1837

Eads did have a small fireworks display last night in its public park which is also where other cross country riders were camping.  If there was a night to camp, maybe last night was it.  It might have been fun to be camping in the park during the fireworks but the park doesn’t have “facilities” so no shower, etc.  I watched some of the fireworks from my window at the Travel Lodge.

I got up really early today because I faced an 80 mile day and I had wind in my face yesterday and expected the same today. Nothing was open in Eads for breakfast so I zapped a breakfast sandwich in the microwave, ate a banana and headed out. I was on the road at 6:30 am in a light chill but very little wind.

I saw the largest Jack Rabbits I have ever seen.  I didn’t know rabbits, other than the Easter Bunny could be that large.  I could get any pictures because they are also nervous and very fast.  I have also never seen terrain as flat as Southeastern Colorado…welcome to the Great Plains.

Today I would pass through the towns of Chivington, Brandon, Sheridan Lake, and Towner.  I discovered that these are not really towns but names for locations of grain elevator and grain storage facilities…that’s it.  There are no towns there at all.  Oh, and Sheridan Lake’s lake has dried up. 

The wind picked up a bit and slowed my progress.  I pedaled toward Tribune, KS where I thought I could get some lunch.

I crossed the border from Colorado into Kansas. 

Washington, Montana, Wyoming and Colorado are behind me.  I arrived in Tribune at noon on the dot and looked for a place to eat.  There were actually a few choices but I settled on the Chatterbox Café.  The café is basic but very friendly.  The owner gave me a notebook and asked me to make an entry.  She had been asking riders on the TransAm to write in the book since 2005.  I flipped through the pages and found other entries by riders from Pennsylvania and many entries from foreign countries.  It was fun to read some of the musings of these folks and see that they commented on similar topics like the weather (mostly wind) and the friendliness of the people they had met.  Outside the restaurant I met a man who asked how my ride was going.  I said,” fine”. He asked, “Doesn’t it get monotonous?”  I agreed that sometimes it does but that I have seen and experienced things that I could not otherwise.  As I rode on, I thought about his question.  I wondered if he ever went fishing: if he grabbed his gear and went out to his favorite fishing spot and cast his line repeatedly without catching any fish…I wondered if he would feel that his fishing experience was “monotonous”.

Heading out toward Leoti, I met four young guys who were planning to depart the ACA TransAm route in Pueblo aiming toward San Francisco then turning south to their hometown, San Diego.  They were the only other cyclist I saw all day.  The wind decreased and my speed increased proportionately.  I crossed from Mountain Time to Central Time and Kasas was kind enough to notify me.

Late afternoon temperatures have been very high so I was glad to finish in Leoti at about 2:30.  I learned from the High Plains Motel proprietor that no restaurants were open on Sunday in Leoti so I headed again for the convenience store next door to stock up on microwavable entrees…yummm. I can’t wait to eat some real food.  Maybe tomorrow.

David

July 5, 2009

Day 30 – Ordway, CO to Eads, CO

Miles today – 62

Total miles – 1758

I rode one mile to the corner truck stop to have a quick breakfast then got on the road at about 8:00 am.  I only had 61 miles to Eads so the day should be easy…wrong.  I started east out of town and discovered that the storm last evening had shifted the wind which was now directly in my face at about 8 to10 mph.  It was going to be a 10 mile per hour day meaning I would be in the saddle for 6 hours.

Just outside Ordway, I got a reminder of the state of our economy.  I began riding next to a railroad sidetrack where empty rail cars were stored.  These rail cars are used to transport automobiles from manufacturing sites to distribution centers.  Here they sat on the sidetrack.  I began tracking the miles as I rode next to them and clocked 11 miles where an estimated 450 cars were stored…not delivering any new automobiles anywhere.

Southeastern Colorado is very, very flat so nothing blocks the wind.  I slowly gained on another rider heading east and finally caught up to Terry Smith.  Terry is from San Diego and is riding solo, unsupported and is camping the entire trip.  His bike looks heavy with supplies. 

We rode the next forty miles together into Eads.  We met two guys from England riding with a guy from Germany headed westbound so we stopped and chatted.

He planned to stay at the public park and I headed for the Econolodge which is now the Travel Lodge.  Note the columbine behind my motel... 

We were told at the convenience store that none of the restaurants in town were open.  My room has a microwave and a refrigerator so I stocked up on a few Hot Pockets (honestly, Hot Pockets) and some grub for breakfast tomorrow because the chances of getting breakfast don’t look so good either.  There is nothing between here and Leoti, KS so, actually lunch isn’t looking so probable either.  I better stock up tonight.

It’s the Fourth of July and I am in the middle of nowhere…no parade, no fireworks…nothing.  Oh, well.  Happy Birthday, America.  And don't forget...

David

July 4, 2009

Day 29 – Pueblo, CO to Ordway, CO

Miles today – 51

Total miles – 1696

I had a short mileage day today so I hung out at the breakfast buffet this morning and departed at about 8:30 am. I rode four blocks and turned on Fourth Street and began climbing a few small hills.  I stopped at a traffic signal and a large pick up truck pulled up a bit too close to me.  I glanced into the bed of the truck and there laid a…dead horse…a nice sight having just stuffed myself with breakfast.  I was going to holler in the open truck window, “Hey dude, your horse is dead.” But the light changed and he sped on to the glue factory I guess.

I proceeded out of town and the urban landscape quickly turned rural again.  The road was flat and I had a wind at my back.  I stopped to adjust my ride wear as it was getting hot fast and was passed by a couple on bikes loaded for a long ride.  I hung behind them for awhile and further down the road I saw that they had stopped so I did too and had the pleasure of meeting John and Jan Bell from Nottingham, England.  John is an experienced tour rider having done Trans Alaska and Africa from Cairo to Cape Town.  This is Jan’s first big tour and she certainly picked a challenging one.  We rode together to the remainder of the day and I learned that John was retired Air Force and was 68 years old.  It was interesting listening to their perceptions about American as he toured.  We discovered as we talked that Jan and John had stayed in the same room (number 5) at the rundown motel in Jeffery City.  He was impressed by Fay and her good old American stick-to-it attitude in the face of the demise of that small town. 

John talked about how a long touring ride was a metaphor for a lifespan.  One day you’re cruising along with the wind at your back and you turn the corner and find the sky turning stormy…just like life itself. Your mood can experience wide swings from depression to elation depending on what conditions you are facing.  I agreed that the experience of riding across America is like a lifetime in miniature and a good way to see what you are made of and how you deal with the mental and physical ups and downs.  Like I keep saying, it’s all part of the adventure and overcoming adversity makes for better stories.

We stopped in Olney Springs and found one small restaurant open.  I was ending my day just 11 miles down the road so I had a diet Pepsi but John and Jan had root beer floats and a brownie each.  Eleven miles later I peeled off to have lunch in Ordway and look for the Ordway Hotel, my home for tonight.  John and Jan were continuing to Sugar City where they planned to camp. 

It struck me as ironic that I was riding with two friends from the UK on the eve of July 4th on the route originally designed to celebrate the 200th aniversary of the war for independence.  We've come a long way. 

Pulling into town I met several bikers all wearing the same jersey so I cleverly concluded that they were a group.  Talking while riding down the main street on Ordway, I found out that this was a supported tour of 13 young people riding for Multiple Sclerosis.  They would be camping in a field behind the local convenience store tonight.  I found a restaurant, The Bit and Spur, in town and stopped in for a bite to eat.  Four riders for the MS group came in so we shared stories. They were west bound and I am east bound so we could share information about upcoming roads and towns.

The Ordway Hotel is a big surprise.  Carolyn, the owner, greeted me with a class of ice water and I registered.  I followed her down the hallway to an extremely comfortable and nicely decorated room.  These are very nice people who have created an oasis in the middle of rural Colorado. 

David

July 3, 2009

Day 28 – Royal Gorge, CO to Pueblo, CO

Miles today – 60

Total miles – 1645

I’m solo again.  My lovely assistant, Donna has flown back to Philadelphia and Mark and family will enjoy a few more days in Breckenridge then fly home as well.  It’s been great having Donna and my friends with me.  But the show must go on.  Mark drove me to the point we finished on Tuesday and dropped me off.  I had forgotten how much I was enjoying the bike sans pannier bag weight until I hung all four back on the bike along with my tent and other stuff and shoved off. 

I have a comment for the Colorado Highway Department…it is similar to the advice a Hollywood fashion designer would give to a starlet about her red carpet dress…I’d like to see a little more shoulder!  He road shoulders in Wyoming and Montana, while not always smooth, were always generous.  Colorado has built its highways with little or no shoulders which is strange for a State that appears to be so “bike friendly”.  Riders will find it necessary to “white line” a lot in Colorado.  Even when I found the shoulder wide from Wetmore to Pueblo, it is almost unrideable because of rumble strips, weeds and broken beer bottles.

After a short uphill, I began a long descent that lasted 6 miles into the town of Canon (pronounced Canyon) City.  Canon City is primarily supported by the activities in and around the Royal Gorge.  An historic train leaves Canon City and runs through the gorge and there are about 5 museums that all looked interesting…I didn’t have time to stop and take them in.  I rode on to Florence, a one street town that had a really good coffee shop called the Pour House.  I knew I wouldn’t have lunch until I reached Pueblo, so I had a coffee and some banana nut bread at an outside table.  It was there that I met John…a former assistant professor from Pittsburgh who had been divorced 5 times and now lived out in the middle of nowhere for some reason that he never got around to revealing.  We talked bikes and he seemed to know quite a bit about them and riding despite the fact that he was built like Buddha. 

I grabbed a banana and some water at the Pour House and peddled on to Wetmore.  As I started out of town and turned onto route 96 I rode past the answer to the question, “Why does Florence still exist?”  There was a huge new Federal Penitentiary.  I imagined that this would be a good place for the Gitmo detainees.  Nobody would ever find them.

Wetmore is nothing more than a turn in the road so I pedaled on to my final destination, Pueblo.  The landscape is barren and it was hot.  The terrain was a series of rolling hills.  This was a fairly boring ride when compared to the beauty of the Breckenridge area.

  I met Steve from Kansas City who was riding the TransAm westbound as a solo rider.  He told me about a good brew pub and bike shop in Pueblo so I pedaled on.

The bike route takes you through some of the best of Pueblo, past the zoo and city park and close to the new river walk. Pueblo is one of many cities using its water way to revive the downtown area.  Many cities have tried this after it was so successful in San Antonio.  I found the Great Divide bike shop.  I wanted to give the bike a quick once over and fix the broken fender with something more permanent than duct tape that I had put on it three weeks ago.  Come to think of it, is there anything more permanent than duct tape?  The shop took my bike directly into the repair area, told me it would be done in an hour and directed me to the brew pub just two blocks away.  These guys were friendly and made my bike a priority because I was on the TransAm.  Hats off to the guys at the Great Divide bike shop.  Oh, and I had a really great lunch at the Shamrock Irish brew pub.  I ate a “boxty” (not really spelled that way in Gaelic) which is a potato pancake stuffed with aged beef and a secret sauce…it was perfect for the hungry biker.  I found a new Cambria Suites down the street and checked in because they had a hot tub and suite-style rooms for under $100.

My friend Bill Danielewski sent me a text message saying that I looked in pictures like I had dropped some weight.  I hadn’t been on a scale since I began riding but they had one in the fitness room so I hopped on and discovered that I have lost 18 pounds! Maybe I can revive my career as a Chippendale dancer by the end of the trip.  I think I still have the black tie collar and cuffs somewhere around the house.

David

July 2, 2009

Day 26 – Fairplay, CO to Royal Gorge, CO

Miles today 67

Total Miles 1585

Mark and I decided to alter our route today because we had to be dropped off in the morning and retrieved when we were done riding and our riding had taken us further and further from our condo in Breckenridge.  But we still wanted to get the miles in so we decided to start in Fairplay which had us retracing some of yesterday’s ride and we planned on finishing near Royal Gorge which gave us a 67 mile day.  This will add about 18 miles to my ride on Thursday but that’s OK.

We had another perfect weather day with blue skies and almost no wind.  The countryside turns from huge snow capped mountains to smaller mountains with pine forests.  Elk and deer roam freely in this area and we saw lots of them.

I made the mistake of telling Mark that the ride today was “all downhill”.  When I looked on the ACA map topography outline, it showed that the drop in elevation was dramatic.  What I didn’t notice was that there were three fairly difficult climbs on the route.  I had failed to manage Mark’s expectations so when we hit the first hill, he had a few choice comments about my “all downhill” day. When we encountered the second hill, I told Mark that I meant to say “mostly downhill” or “eventually downhill” or “on average it’s downhill” but he wasn’t buying any of it.  Much of your attitude while riding is affected by your mental preparedness and we weren’t expecting hills.  So, despite the beautiful day, we grumbled on about the hills.  The temperature climbed, too so we stopped to shed some layers of clothing and biked on.

We actually were riding very well and averaged 15.4 mph.  We finished at the intersection of Route 9 and Route 50 at 12:15.  There was no place to eat there so we turned into Jellystone RV Park (yep, Yogi Bear and all) and asked about food.  They sent us up the road to the White Water Grill where we had a very cold adult beverage and great sandwiches served by our new friend, Zina.

 Donna found us and we took the long drive back to Breckenridge.  On the way back, we passed a crew that was painting the yellow lines down the middle of Route 9.  When I got back to the condo, I discovered that my bike's rear wheel and tire had been coated in yellow paint that had sprayed from our car tires as we drove through the fresh highway paint.  I spent a half hour scraping off the quick drying paint and the bike looks somewhat normal.  Fortunately, the paint had splattered the “non-gear” side of the rear wheel.  If the paint had hit the rear cassette and derailleur side, I would have had a much bigger problem.

Donna and I walked through Breckenridge tonight and sampled tasty food at a small French Patisserie.  As we walked up Main Street, we encountered two foxes (not the Zina kind) that had come down from the hills to see what was going on in town.  Also the Budweiser Clydesdales are in town so we stopped in to say hello.

I’m taking a rest day tomorrow so there probably will be no blog.  On Thursday, Donna heads back home and Mark drops me off at the Royal Gorge and I begin riding solo and unsupported again.  It’s been great to have Donna with me for two weeks and wonderful to share some of this experience with my best friends David, John and Mark.  I'll miss them but look forward to returning to the road as "man and machine"...just me and the bike out to discover America.

David

June 30, 2009